{"id":7658,"date":"2021-10-01T17:10:49","date_gmt":"2021-10-01T17:10:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/?p=7658"},"modified":"2023-01-23T11:16:55","modified_gmt":"2023-01-23T18:16:55","slug":"chiles-en-nogada-beef-pork-or-seafood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/2021\/10\/01\/chiles-en-nogada-beef-pork-or-seafood\/","title":{"rendered":"Chiles en Nogada: Beef, Pork, or Seafood?"},"content":{"rendered":"

On September 15th, Mexico celebrates its independence from Spain. In 1810 the war that would last ten years gave birth to Mexico as a nation. September is thus a month of celebration for us, not just the 15th. This is also the month of abundance of fresh walnuts and pomegranate, two ingredients dubbed indispensable for Chiles en Nogada<\/i>: roasted poblanos stuffed with ground beef, pork, or seafood, covered with a cream and cheese walnut sauce, all this sprinkled with grains of pomegranate and parsley leaves. This complex dish\u2014colored as the Mexican flag\u2014belongs to those rare dishes that can give you an incredible blend of flavors while you devour them.<\/p>\n

\"mexican<\/p>\n

As usual, the history of chiles en nogada<\/i> includes myths that are hard to separate from reality. Most Mexicans believe for example the story that Mole Poblano<\/i> was created by nuns in Puebla to offer it to a distinguished Viceroy visiting the city. There is also a story about some nuns in Puebla\u2014nuns in Puebla again? sure, why not?\u2014that created chiles en nogada<\/i> in 1821 to offer it to Agust\u00edn de Iturbide, hero of the Mexican Independence. Alas! The nogada<\/i> sauce recipe appeared in a 1780 cookbook written by Friar Ger\u00f3nimo de San Pelayo, some 40 years before the Independence war was over. This sauce was used first for desserts and there was a \u201cfine version\u201d of it made with almonds instead of walnuts.The use of the nogada<\/i> sauce on a pie or ice cream would constitute a serious offense to today\u00b4s purists. Indisputably, Mexican food history is a great area of opportunity for serious researchers.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Chile en nogada with pecan and cream sauce<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I believe in the theory of evolution, food-wise that is. Moles<\/i> in Mexico are the evolution of pipianes<\/i>, pre-Columbian sauces made with chiles and pumpkin seeds, herbs, and spices. Nuns in Puebla probably added chocolate and cinnamon\u2014among other ingredients\u2014to a pipian<\/i> and mole poblano<\/i> was born. I submit that chiles en nogada<\/i> existed before the nuns added the green parsley and the red pomegranate grains to resemble the colors of the Mexican flag desperately needed for the occasion. But who is to say that parsley wasn’t added only to complement the colors of the Mexican flag\u2014not flavor\u2014and that it was the only \u201cgreen\u201d available in the kitchen that day?<\/p>\n

Chiles en Nogada: What’s in a Stuffing?<\/h2>\n

Before chiles en nogada<\/i> were stuffed with meat, they were filled with fresh fruit only and served as desserts. Later the fruits were replaced with meat and the dessert became a main dish. I have tried stuffing chiles with 100% beef and they taste very good provided the beef has some fat. Pork<\/a> is added because of the undeniable good flavor of its fat. Common knowledge dictates today that a mix of half and half beef and pork is the best. This would be defended to death by most even if they don’t know that the role of fat or oil in any recipe is to become the vehicle of flavor. How about seafood? Oh well now you are talking about a major sacrilege! That’s a no-no for purists! Well, recently I had the opportunity to taste a seafood stuffed chile en nogada<\/i> in a respected restaurant. The sauce was made with walnuts, which in my opinion needed more punch. I was not impressed. The stuffing however was interesting. The seafood mix included shrimp<\/a>, octopus, crab meat, and dried fruits\u2014recipe below. It was fine by itself, worked excellently with the roasted poblano, but when mixed with the walnut sauce, in my view, the marriage just didn’t work. I, however, would like to try one stuffed only with crab meat<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\"Chiles
Chiles en Nogada photo courtesy of Chef Mal\u00fa Rodr\u00edguez Elizondo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In a book that reproduces recipes from the early 1900\u00b4s in Jer\u00e9z, Zacatecas\u2014birthplace of my grandmother on my mother’s side\u2014appear three recipes for chiles en nogada<\/i>. The use of pecans and almonds is called for and only one recipe suggests the use of walnuts if available.<\/p>\n

Today the most significant \u201csin\u201d or \u201csacrilege\u201d by purists is to substitute walnuts for pecans in the sauce. How about almonds as the old recipes call for? No way Jos\u00e9\u2026 I personally use pecans and the reason is simple: I like the flavor of pecans better than that of walnuts; crucify me for that. By the way, pecan tree in Spanish is nogal<\/i>\u2026 Walnuts need to be soaked overnight and peeled painstakingly one by one. I don’t have patience for that and the flavor obtained is not superior to that of pecans. Now I\u00b4m ready for sentencing…<\/p>\n

The Chiles en Nogada Debate Rages On<\/h2>\n

But the discussion is not over yet. There is a debate whether the chile en noga<\/i>da<\/em> should be battered or not. My view is that you already have a wonderful combination of fine flavors, why add eggs and flour? There is also a popular version in the State of Yucatan where the whole chile is wrapped in puff pastry and baked! That I want to try!<\/p>\n

My latest chile en nogada<\/i> experience was at the home of Chef Mal\u00fa Rodr\u00edguez Elizondo near Mexico City. I consider her recipe\u2014included below\u2014a classic. The subtle differences in her ingredients to other contemporary recipes produced a completely different and genuine flavor. This was an enlightenment to me on the wealth of extraordinary flavors this dish can produce. Thank you dear Mal\u00fa for the memorable experience and for sharing your wonderful recipe with us!<\/p>\n

What is the best recipe, then? The question is equivalent to what is the best wine or the best cigar. The answer to those questions is simple: the one that pleases you. At the end, as Mark Miller once told me: \u201cfood has to taste good\u201d. No matter the looks, the service, the place or the price, \u201cfood has to taste good\u201d. Buen provecho! <\/i><\/p>\n

Recipes for Chiles en Nogada<\/h2>\n

The following recipes need six chiles poblanos fire roasted, peeled, seeded, and deveined. The chiles need to be fully cooked but firm to hold the stuffing properly. I recommend roasting the chiles and cooking the stuffing a day in advance to simplify the process. The stuffing will turn taster this way as time facilitates the blending of the ingredients\u00b4 flavors.<\/p>\n

Chiles en Nogada by Chef Mal\u00fa Rodr\u00edguez Elizondo (Beef stuffed Poblanos with Nogada<\/i> Sauce)<\/h3>\n

A contemporary classic recipe that produces solid outstanding results.<\/p>\n

\"Chile
Chile en Nogada by Chef Mal\u00fa Rodr\u00edguez Elizondo<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ingredients<\/h4>\n
    \n
  • 6 chiles poblanos roasted peeled, seeded and deveined<\/li>\n
  • 1 bunch parsley for garnish<\/li>\n
  • 1 pomegranate in grains for garnish<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    For the stuffing:<\/h4>\n
      \n
    • 1 lb. ground beef<\/li>\n
    • 2 cloves of garlic minced<\/li>\n
    • \u00bd medium size onion finely chopped<\/li>\n
    • \u00bd plantain chopped<\/li>\n
    • 1 peach peeled and chopped<\/li>\n
    • 1 apple peeled and chopped<\/li>\n
    • 1 pear peeled and chopped<\/li>\n
    • \u00bc cup white almonds toasted and chopped<\/li>\n
    • \u00bc cup pine nuts toasted<\/li>\n
    • \u00bc cup raisins<\/li>\n
    • \u00bd cup your favorite dried fruit<\/li>\n
    • \u00bd cup parsley finely chopped<\/li>\n
    • \u00bd\u00a0 teaspoon ground cinnamon<\/li>\n
    • A pinch of cloves ground<\/li>\n
    • A pinch of black pepper ground<\/li>\n
    • A pinch of Rosemary, thyme and marjoram<\/li>\n
    • 2 Bay leaves whole (to be removed before stuffing the chiles)<\/li>\n
    • Salt to taste<\/li>\n
    • Olive oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

      For the sauce:<\/h4>\n
        \n
      • 2 cups of walnuts peeled and soaked in milk overnight<\/li>\n
      • \u00bd lb. cream cheese<\/li>\n
      • \u00bd cup half and half cream<\/li>\n
      • 1 cup whole milk<\/li>\n
      • 1 slice of white bread (optional, to thicken the sauce)<\/li>\n
      • A pinch ground cloves<\/li>\n
      • \u00bd teaspoon of ground cinnamon<\/li>\n
      • 2 tbsp Sherry<\/li>\n
      • \u2153 cup white wine<\/li>\n
      • Sugar to taste<\/li>\n
      • A pinch of salt<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

        Instructions<\/h4>\n

        For the stuffing:<\/h4>\n
          \n
        1. Brown the meat in the oil. Add the onion and garlic and salt and cook for 10 minutes.<\/li>\n
        2. Add the parsley, fruit, nuts and spices and cook for 10 minutes. Reserve.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

          For the sauce:<\/h4>\n
            \n
          1. Grind in a blender the walnuts with the cheese and cream. Add the milk little by little to obtain a thick sauce (and the bread if desired). Add the Sherry, the wine and the sugar. Check for taste and adjust to your liking.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

            For mounting the plates:<\/h4>\n
              \n
            1. Stuff the chiles and cover with the sauce. Garnish with pomegranate grains and finish with the parsley leaves.<\/li>\n
            2. Rice makes an excellent accompaniment. Any leftover sauce can be used to dress rice, it works wonders!<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

              Chiles en Nogada Rellenos de Mariscos (Seafood Stuffed Poblanos with Nogada Sauce)<\/h3>\n

              An interesting dish for seafood fans.<\/p>\n

              \"Chiles
              Chile en nogada stuffed with seafood<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

              Ingredients<\/h4>\n
                \n
              • 6 chiles Poblanos roasted peeled, seeded and deveined<\/li>\n
              • 1 bunch parsley for garnish<\/li>\n
              • 1 pomegranate in grains for garnish<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                For the stuffing:<\/h4>\n
                  \n
                • \u00bd lb. Small shrimp shelled<\/li>\n
                • \u00bd lb. Crab meat shredded<\/li>\n
                • \u00bc\u00a0 medium size onion finely chopped<\/li>\n
                • 1 clove of garlic minced<\/li>\n
                • \u00bc\u00a0 cup pecans toasted and chopped roughly<\/li>\n
                • \u00bc cup almonds sliced<\/li>\n
                • \u00bd cup your favorite dried fruit<\/li>\n
                • \u00bd cup of white wine<\/li>\n
                • Salt to taste<\/li>\n
                • Olive oil<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                  For the sauce:<\/h4>\n
                    \n
                  • 2 cups of pecans shelled<\/li>\n
                  • \u00bd lb. cream cheese<\/li>\n
                  • \u00bd pint sour cream<\/li>\n
                  • 1 cup whole milk<\/li>\n
                  • 2 tbsp Sherry<\/li>\n
                  • \u00bd teaspoon of ground cinnamon<\/li>\n
                  • Sugar to taste<\/li>\n
                  • A pinch of salt<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

                    Instructions<\/h4>\n

                    For the stuffing:<\/h4>\n
                      \n
                    1. Saute the shrimp, onion and garlic in the oil until the onion is translucent. Add the crab meat, nuts, and fruit and cook for 5 minutes. Add the wine and cook for 5 minutes. Check for salt and add if needed. Reserve.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

                      For the sauce:<\/h4>\n
                        \n
                      1. Grind in a blender the pecans with the cheese and the cream, add the milk little by little to obtain a thick sauce. Add the sherry, cinnamon, and the sugar. Check for taste; add the salt that will kick the flavors and adjust to your liking.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

                        For mounting the plates:<\/h4>\n
                          \n
                        1. Stuff the chiles and cover with the sauce. Garnish with parsley leaves and pomegranate grains. Rice makes an excellent accompaniment. Any leftover sauce can dress rice perfectly.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n

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                          Chiles en nogada, colored as the Mexican flag, belongs to those rare dishes that can give you an incredible blend of flavors while you devour them. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":7666,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":[],"categories":[92],"tags":[663,218,163,89],"aioseo_notices":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7658"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/8"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=7658"}],"version-history":[{"count":6,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7658\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7668,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7658\/revisions\/7668"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7666"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7658"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=7658"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=7658"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}