{"id":7925,"date":"2021-12-09T16:00:58","date_gmt":"2021-12-09T23:00:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/?p=7925"},"modified":"2023-01-23T11:16:53","modified_gmt":"2023-01-23T18:16:53","slug":"making-curry-powders-and-pastes-for-seafood","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.seafood-harvest.com\/index.php\/2021\/12\/09\/making-curry-powders-and-pastes-for-seafood\/","title":{"rendered":"Making Curry Powders and Pastes for Seafood"},"content":{"rendered":"

Many purists abhor commercial curry powders in their curries. \u201cThey are anathema to Indian cooking,\u201d wrote Dharamjit Singh, author of Indian Cookery<\/em>, \u201cprepared for imaginary palates, having neither the delicacy nor the perfume of flowers and sweet-smelling herbs, nor the savour and taste of genuine aromatics.\u201d\u00a0 He added: \u201cCurry powders often contain inferior spices which with age become acrid and medicinal in taste. They not only mask the natural taste of foods, but lend a weary sameness to everything with which they are used.\u201d Note: This story is excerpted from A World of Curries<\/em>, available in our digital bookstore, here<\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"reeling<\/p>\n

Pat Chapman, the U.K.\u2019s \u201cKing of Curries,\u201d notes another drawback to commercial powders.\u00a0 \u201cThe manufacturers,\u201d he writes, \u201coften put in too much chile and salt, and in some cases, chemical colorings and preservatives.\u00a0 Undeclared additives can include husks and stalks, and other adulterations.\u201d\u00a0 (In India, salt is added to curry powder to inhibit the formation of mold.)\u00a0 Noted author and curry lover Elizabeth David also turned her nose up at\u00a0 prepared curry powders.\u00a0 \u201cTo me they are unlikeable,\u201d she wrote, \u201charshly flavored, and possessed of an aroma clinging and all-pervading in its way as English boiled cabbage or cauliflower.\u00a0 Too much hot red pepper, too much low-grade ginger, too much mustard seed and fenugreek\u2026.\u201d<\/p>\n

Juel Anderson, author of The Curry Primer<\/em>, has pointed out: \u201cThrough time, commercial spice mixtures have become so uniform a blend that most of us know curries only as yellow-colored foods with a standard aroma, often peppery-hot and as predictable in flavor as a Big Mac.\u201d Indeed, there is a sameness to commercial curry powders, especially those made in the United States to the 1977 USDA standards for curry powder, which calls for the following percentages of spices: coriander, 36; turmeric, 28; cumin, 10; fenugreek, 10; white pepper, 5; allspice, 4; mustard, 3; red pepper, 2; and ginger, 2.\u00a0 However, I should point out that there are many imported curry powders, especially from India, which vary in flavor considerably because they contain a wider variety of spices used in many different percentages.\u00a0 Here is a selection of prepared curry powders:<\/p>\n

\"curry \"curry<\/p>\n

Commercial curry powders are basically convenience condiments and should be treated that way. Cookbook author John Philips Cranwell suggests three reasons for using commercial curry preparations: they produce a uniform result with a given recipe; the individual spices necessary to make a certain curry may not be available at a given time; and buying commercial curry preparations saves kitchen time and work. I believe that common sense must prevail. It may be true, Singh suggests, that: \u201cOnce you have tried [separate spices] you will no more use the packaged curry powder than you would accept another person\u2019s taste in the choice of your clothes.\u201d But, on the other hand, is it considered bad taste to use a packaged Sri Lankan curry paste if the cook has run out of some of the necessary ingredients to prepare a fresh curry paste? Or, if fresh lemongrass is not immediately available for a Thai curry, should the cook substitute powdered lemon grass, or use a bottled curry paste containing fresh lemongrass? These are decisions only the cook can make, and there will certainly be times when convenience will triumph over authenticity. Here is an example of a selection bottled green curry paste.<\/p>\n

My recommendation is that, whenever possible, cooks should follow the recipes in this series and use freshly ground or mixed ingredients for the curries.\u00a0 Prepared powders and other products can be a backup for cooks lacking the time or certain essential ingredients, but cooks should, whenever possible, avoid the cheap American-made curry powders.<\/p>\n

Generally speaking, the commercial curry preparations fall into the following categories.\u00a0 Massalas<\/em> are spice blends that usually lack turmeric and chiles.\u00a0 Curry powders<\/em> contain turmeric (the yellower the powder, the more turmeric it contains), and a large percentage of coriander.\u00a0 Curry pastes<\/em> are sealed, moist blends of herbs, spices, and other ingredients such as coconut, onions, fresh chiles, and ginger.\u00a0 They are imported from India, Thailand<\/a>, Indonesia<\/a>, and Sri Lanka. Curry sauces<\/em> are available either in bottles or in mixes, and are used as marinades or to make an \u201cinstant\u201d curry gravy for meats.\u00a0 Curry oils<\/em> are vegetable oils steeped in curry spices, and they are generally used as a condiment to add a curry flavor to prepared foods.<\/p>\n

Making Freshly-Ground Curry Powders<\/strong><\/p>\n

Since the process of making a powder exposes more surface area of a spice as it is ground, the spice oxidizes more quickly in powder form, quickly losing volatile oils and flavor components.\u00a0 I advise cooks to make only enough powder to cook one meal and to avoid storing leftover powder.\u00a0 However, I realize that some cooks will make quite a volume of powder and, being frugal, will store it.\u00a0 In this case, I advise using as small a jar as possible and sealing the top tightly.<\/p>\n

Curry pastes store better than powders because the moisture in them retards oxidation and traps the spice oils.\u00a0 But the moisture is also a breeding ground for fungi and bacteria, so curry pastes should always be refrigerated.\u00a0 Some cooks place a thin layer of vegetable oil over the paste to reduce oxidation even more.<\/p>\n

The first step in making curry powder is to roast the spices.\u00a0 This is accomplished by placing the raw spices in a dry skillet on top of the stove, in a dry electric frying pan, or on a baking sheet placed under the broiler or in the oven.\u00a0 The goal is to heat the spices with medium heat until they release their distinct aromas.\u00a0 Except in the cases of some dark curry blends, such as those from Sri Lanka, the spices should not be blackened.\u00a0 Also, they should not be heated for too long, or the volative oils will be lost.\u00a0 Practice is the only way to learn how long to roast the spices.\u00a0 The oily and volative spices, such as cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, and mace, are usually not roasted\u2013but there are exceptions in some recipes.<\/p>\n

The next step is grinding the spices.\u00a0 Cooks have several options open to them, including the original method of grinding between two stones, which in this day and age is a bit obsolete.\u00a0 A mortar and pestle can be used, but it takes a lot of muscle power to grind the spices fine enough to make a powder.\u00a0 Blenders, coffee grinders, and food processors may also be used, but by far the best solution is to use an electric spice mill (shown at left) that is dedicated only to spices.\u00a0 Grind the roasted spices in small quantities so as not to burn out the motor.\u00a0 Avoid grinding whole dried ginger, cinnamon, and turmeric without first pulverizing them manually (with a hammer), because they are very tough or fibrous and difficult to grind with home equipment.\u00a0 Some cooks find it easier just to use powdered ginger and turmeric.<\/p>\n

Freshly ground spices can be stored for later use, but not for long periods of time.\u00a0 Two or three months is the maximum for most ground spices, and be sure to store them in small bottles that are tightly capped.\u00a0 Store the spices in a dark place, as sunlight can degrade their flavors.<\/p>\n

Blending the roasted and ground spices is simple.\u00a0 Either use the spice mill, or place the spices in a shallow bowl and blend them thoroughly with a fork.\u00a0 Use a food processor or blender to make curry pastes, following the individual recipe directions.\u00a0 Often, pastes must be made in two or three batches, and then further mixed by hand.\u00a0 Some pastes must be fried in oil before they are added to the recipe.\u00a0 This procedure removes water from the onions and other paste ingredients and cooks the spices again to remove their raw flavor.\u00a0 Just take care not to burn the paste.<\/p>\n

Cooking and Serving Curries<\/strong><\/p>\n

Some cooks suggest that curry spices actually take a secondary role to the other ingredients. \u201cAlthough the dish is called curry,\u201d observes Indian food expert Julie Sahni, \u201cthe most characteristic ingredient in all classic curries is the slowly cooked, caramelized onions not unlike those used in French onion soup.\u201d\u00a0 Indeed, in many cuisines, the curry spices used provide only a portion of the flavor of the dish.\u00a0 Additional flavor elements are contributed by ingredients such as lemongrass, galangal, coconut, papaya, tamarind, and other exotic ingredients.\u00a0 And finally, the chosen meats, fish, or vegetables in the curry also add their unique flavors.<\/p>\n

Most curries are cooked in large skillets or in woks, so the curry cook is advised to have a selection of shallow, non-aluminum cookware with lids.\u00a0 Wooden spoons are the best utensils for stirring curries since they do not conduct heat very well.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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Thai curries<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Curries are convenient to cook for parties since most can easily be prepared ahead of time and reheated just before serving.\u00a0 They also freeze well, which is a great convenience.\u00a0 Cooks should remember that some curries, such as curried salads, can be served cold and make good outdoor, summer food.<\/p>\n

And what other dishes should be served with curries?\u00a0 Most curries are served with some form of rice, and plain white rice is an excellent accompaniment to most curries.\u00a0 The condiments are usually either served in bowls so that guests may sprinkle them over the curry, or are placed on the side of the individual dishes.\u00a0 Additionally, here is a general list of basic condiments often served with curries worldwide: fried eggplant, tamarind jam, candied coconut, candied ginger, pickled vegetables (such as onions), mango chutney, grated fresh coconut, grated roasted coconut, chopped peanuts or almonds, grated or slice hard-boiled eggs, chopped crisp bacon, chopped tomatoes, and salted fish.<\/p>\n

Bafat<\/em> (Hurry Curry)<\/h3>\n

\"bafat<\/p>\n

There are scores of curry powders on the market today. The purists may frown on curry powders, but they are indeed useful for making curries in a hurry. Even in India, curry powders have become an integral part of middle class family life. This curry powder, called bafat<\/em>, is from the southwestern region of India. It can be used for a meat, fish, or any vegetable curry.\u00a0 It can even be used the same day for two completely different dishes, each with its own unique flavor!\u00a0 Traditionally, the spices are sun-dried for three days and then roasted.<\/p>\n

Ingredients<\/h4>\n